Headlight Bulb Equivalent Chart
Bulb numbers can have more than one designation. A vehicle manual may list an SAE code such as 9005, an HB code such as HB3, or an international code such as H11. These names can identify the same basic bulb, but a matching number does not automatically prove that the bulb is correct for your vehicle.
Use this chart as a starting point when comparing interchangeable bulb names. Always confirm the fitment in your owner’s manual, the original bulb, or a reliable vehicle-specific catalog before buying.
Common bulb number equivalents
- H4 = 9003 = HB2: Common dual-filament halogen bulb used for both low and high beam in one bulb. The connector and mounting tabs must still match.
- H13 = 9008: Dual-filament bulb commonly used for combined low- and high-beam applications.
- 9004 = HB1: Dual-filament bulb with its own connector and mounting design.
- 9007 = HB5: Dual-filament bulb, often used in applications where low and high beam share one housing.
- 9005 = HB3: Single-filament bulb commonly used for high beam or a fog-light application.
- 9006 = HB4: Single-filament bulb commonly used for low beam or fog-light applications. It is not a direct replacement for 9005.
- H1: Single-filament bulb with a separate electrical ground through the metal base in many applications.
- H3: Single-filament bulb with a short attached wire lead. Its base and connector differ from most other H-series bulbs.
- H7: Single-filament bulb with a two-terminal connector. It is not interchangeable with H11 simply because both are common halogen bulbs.
- H8, H9, and H11: Related bulb families with similar general shapes, but different power ratings, tabs, connectors, or application requirements. Treat them as related—not automatically interchangeable.
- HIR1 = 9011: High-output infrared-reflecting bulb family. It may resemble other 9005-style bulbs, but base modifications or housing requirements can matter.
- HIR2 = 9012: High-output infrared-reflecting bulb family. It is not automatically a replacement for 9006 or H11.
What “equivalent” really means
An equivalent bulb should match more than its general shape. For a safe replacement, compare the following specifications:
- Base and locking tabs: The bulb must lock into the reflector or projector without force, wobble, or modification.
- Connector: The terminal layout and plug shape must fit securely. Loose connections can cause flickering, heat, or melted plugs.
- Voltage: Most passenger vehicles use a 12-volt lighting system, but the bulb must still be intended for that system.
- Wattage: Higher wattage can overload wiring, connectors, fuses, or the headlight housing. Do not use it to gain brightness unless the vehicle and wiring are designed for it.
- Filament or light position: On halogen bulbs, the filament position controls the beam pattern. A bulb that fits physically can still aim light incorrectly and create glare.
- Beam function: Low beam, high beam, fog light, turn signal, and daytime running light positions may require different bulb designs.
Why similar bulb numbers are not always interchangeable
Bulb families often share a similar shape while using different electrical ratings or beam functions. For example, 9005 and 9006 may look related, but their bases, power ratings, and intended beam positions are different. H8, H9, and H11 can also appear similar, yet installing one in place of another may produce an incorrect output, overload the circuit, or require changes that are not appropriate for a road vehicle.
Halogen, HID, and LED bulbs should not be treated as direct equivalents. A halogen bulb has a filament at a precise location. An HID system uses an arc, ballast, and different optical requirements. An LED replacement uses emitters that must be positioned correctly inside the housing. A plug-in LED may fit the socket but still create poor beam control, warning messages, cooling problems, or illegal glare.
How to verify a replacement bulb
1. Read the installed bulb
Turn the lights off, allow the housing to cool, and remove the bulb according to the vehicle manual. The designation is usually printed on the bulb base or connector. Do not rely only on a faded label or an online listing title.
2. Compare the complete specification
Match the bulb number, voltage, wattage, filament count, base, and beam function. If the replacement lists multiple equivalent numbers, verify that the numbers are true cross-references rather than similar-looking products.
3. Check the housing and wiring
Inspect for melted connectors, corrosion, moisture, or damaged retaining clips. A new bulb will not solve a poor connection or a failing headlight assembly. Never force a bulb into the socket or bend the tabs to make an uncertain fit work.
4. Test the beam after installation
Keep glass halogen bulbs free of fingerprints, secure the dust cap, and test low beam, high beam, and any dashboard indicators. If the bulb is LED or HID, check for proper startup, flicker, warning messages, and a controlled beam pattern. Aim the headlights if the housing or mounting position was disturbed.
Bottom line
A bulb number equivalent is useful for finding replacement options, but it is not a substitute for vehicle-specific fitment verification. Start with the original bulb number, confirm the base and electrical specifications, and choose a product designed for the same beam position and housing type. When an equivalent requires trimming, rewiring, or removing a dust cap, it is generally not a true plug-and-play replacement.